SCENE FROM THE TRAIL: August 25 - September 1: Stevens Pass to Stehekin

What a week. I worried so much about how hard this stretch was and I was right,
yet it wasn't as bad as I feared. We faced several fears and uncomfortable conditions and persevered. The first and probably most hindering issue this leg was rain. Even when it wasn't raining the brush was wet and as a result so were we. The rain caused additional problems by increasing creek levels making usually easy crossings more tricky and often times creating new creeks generally right down the middle of the trail. Much of the trail is on a clay-like surface which gets very slick when wet. All of these only to make our slow pace even slower. We were wet and cold and miserable. Our shoes were totally wet for 6 of the 7 1/2 days we were out. Most damaging though was the affect the rain had on our spirits. It was hard to keep pushing on when you're miserable and it's so dark and dreary. We could rarely stop for breaks or we'd really get soaked. It's not like there's a dry shelter to break in so we'd push through each day. About mid stride it really rained hard all night and gave no signs of letting up so we decided to take a zero day and just hole up in the tent. We knew we didn't have enough food to last an additional day so we didn't eat anything. Talk about a long day. We slept, visited, slept, read past devotionals, slept, listened to our iPods and slept more. The rain did not stop until around 3pm and then it was only for an hour or so before the showers continued. At least the voraciousness let up. The next morning we woke to a soggy world but sunshine. Our last full hiking day and no rain! It was still evening before our shoes started to dry. Wearing wet shoes all week gave us water blisters and prune feet. We'd often ask each other how other hikers do this for weeks on end which is so common for Washington.

We still haven't seen much in they way of large animals. Perhaps its a good thing? There has been trail talk of a few bear sightings. We've continued to have some neat "conversations" with chipmunks and marmots. We even had a squirrel get so upset he started dropping cones on us causing us literally to run out of his target range!

We had a few limited views of mountains including Glacier Peak. They really are impressive and very beautiful--even in the clouds and rain.

This part of the trail is more mountainous. We will climb up and down 6000 feet in a day instead of a gentle 1500. We are finding the up is almost easier and faster. We feel more secure of our footing going up but it sure isn't as taxing going down!

I'm not afraid of water crossings, I'm terrified. This has been a week of challenges and growth in that area. Due to the rain raising the levels even the minor crossings were a little trickier. Rocks normally used for hopping were now submerged forcing us to get creative. Once we tossed more rocks in until we had a new crossing even though it was tipsy. I crossed on a skinny log a fat log and a broken bridge. TBG has always been my knight in shining armor making sure I was safe. Downed trees has been another major issue this leg. We've climbed over, around and under logs multiple times daily. Some were small and only a minor inconvenience but a couple were 4' or so tall and more challenging. I slipped climbing over one and knocked the wind out of me and bruised a rib as well as scaring us both.

Another bummer of the rain was the fact that nearly all the views were blocked by clouds or we were too miserable to care. Frustrating to work so hard for nothing. We met several other hikers and everyone shared the same sentiments. But alas, the sun did come out before we arrived at Stehekin so our moods were improved when we arrived at this beautiful and extremely remote vacation spot on Labor Day weekend.

Of course there were no rooms available so we (and the other hikers) were given free camping in the overflow area. Let me describe the area to you. Stehekin is a small community (I believe I heard 80 residents) located on the edge of Lake Chelan which is 50 miles long and a mile wide. It is only accessible by ferry, sea plane or by foot. There is one, 11 mile road and a bus that runs a few times a day from one end to the other of it dropping you off at different highlights. There is a National Park Visitor Center, lodge, restaurant, store, post office, bike rental and laundry at one end-"The Landing" where the ferry and planes dock. A few miles away is a bakery and a few miles farther is High Bridge where the PCT connects. The bus takes about 2 hours to do one loop up and back and there is an understandable if notable fee for this service.

Mom and Dad Owens sent our final resupply package here so we are excited to get it and be on our way but our orginal plan had us arriving Friday and we didn't make it until Sunday but because of the holiday we can't get our stuff until Tuesday. Because they are so small and remote they have their own flexible hours so we can't get our packages until late morning on Tuesday. This coupled with meeting the very tight bus schedule doesn't allow for much time to go through our supplies and get them organized and packed or to do any shopping for any possible supplements.

On Monday the bulk of the tourists left and we were able to get a room-Yippee! Of course there's no cell phone service (or ANY phone for that matter). Nor is there WiFi or television unless you have satellite. At least there is running water, plumbing and electricity! The menu in the restaurant is limited but decent and considering where we are, reasonably priced. We need to let Jeff eat from dawn to dusk as he is once again too thin. I on the other hand do not share that problem. In fact I think I ate something I shouldn't have as I was quite ill all night Monday night requiring us to stay an additional day to rest and to make sure it's not a lasting thing. Now we won't leave until Wednesday. We found the wait staff at the restaurant a little unfriendly but can't say enough great things about the rest of the staff from the housekeepers to the dynamic managers who actually took the time to visit with us and call us by name. The bakery (a different business) was also great. The food was fantastic and the staff were friendly. Unbeknownst to us at the time, we had chatted with the owners the day before and they rembered us--so friendly. We were very impressed with Stehekin and want to return someday.

The weather forecast for the next 7-10 days is rain and thunder and lightening. Great, just what we want as we go up and down in elevations again. We have four big climbs this stretch-each about 7000 feet. What a way to finish our last 80 miles--in rain. Also word is there are 28 washouts on the trail, some are reportedly tricky. Also a bridge has twisted requiring a ford of the river now. So one way or another it sounds like we're gonna be wet when we get to Canada. No "Canada Dry" for us!

Until Canada...
We love hiking!
KOKO & The Bald Guy